weekly column

Did Istanbul Make Me More of an Asshole?

I’m not a "porcelain doll"

When I first moved to Istanbul, people kept giving me the same advice.

“Don’t talk to strangers, they’ll eat you alive.”
“Stop thanking cars for letting you pass.”
“Never react when someone honks at you.”

Every conversation sounded like I had accidentally moved into a low-budget survival documentary. And honestly? I always reacted a little offended. Like, relax. I can handle myself. I’m not 14. But eventually I realized the problem was never that I was too soft.

I was just too European

In the metro, I almost never made it inside. I kept waiting for people to get out first because, in my mind, that’s what civilized society had collectively agreed on at some point in history. Unfortunately, Istanbul had apparently missed that meeting. In supermarket lines, older women would aggressively cut in front of me and I’d think, oh, she probably didn’t notice me.

She noticed me.

What I didn’t understand back then was that all of this was part of a very specific Istanbul survival strategy. People here aren’t necessarily rude. They’re just moving through life with the urgency of someone trying to board the last helicopter out of a collapsing city.

Meanwhile, I was still emotionally processing everything. The overstimulation hit me harder than I expected. Some days it felt impossible to walk through the city without wanting to cry at least once.

A dead bird on the sidewalk.
A sick cat hiding under a scooter.
An exhausted dog sleeping next to traffic.

Or an old man standing in front of the meat section at the supermarket, quietly talking to himself about how expensive everything had become and what he was even supposed to eat anymore. And then there was me, lying awake at 2 AM, suddenly trying to mentally establish:

A retirement support organization,
A neighborhood animal shelter,
A low-cost sterilization program,
and possibly an after-school youth center.

I kept thinking: somebody should really do something. And then my brain would answer: somebody also has work tomorrow, so calm down. Maybe that’s a German thing. You see a problem and immediately assume it can be solved if enough people organize properly and someone opens an Excel sheet.

The city is always ahead of you

But Istanbul doesn’t really let you emotionally finish processing one thing before the next thing arrives. There is always another crisis. Another conversation. Another “güncel konu.” Something new everyone is suddenly talking about with incredible emotional intensity.

At first, I tried to keep up.

I wanted to understand everything. Read everything. Care about everything. Maybe even contribute something meaningful. But being an outsider in Istanbul sometimes feels like trying to jump onto a moving train already going 200 km/h.

By the time you finally understand one thing, everyone else has emotionally moved on to the next. And eventually, exhaustion quietly enters the room and sits down next to you.

You stop reacting to every honk.
You stop apologizing to aggressive people.
You stop waiting politely in metro stations.

Survival of the fastest.

And one day you suddenly think: Wow, I made it.

Maybe I’m finally becoming one of those Istanbul assholes

Someone pushing in line? Fine. I’ll push too.
A man screaming in traffic? Understandable.
One last seat on the bus? Run. Fast.

But weirdly, the feeling never fully lasts.

Because every time I think I’ve finally mastered the emotional survival strategy of this city, something completely „normal“ destroys me again.

A little girl who should probably be asleep instead of selling flowers in a Turkish tavern at midnight or two teenagers after school discussing hobbies they can’t afford.
And suddenly I’m emotional. Lost again. Winner: Istanbul. I guess I still need more training. Maybe I need to watch more politicians.

So I think the real question isn’t whether Istanbul made me more of an asshole.

Maybe the real question is:
why does becoming one sometimes feel like the goal?

See you in my next emotional breakdown.
Until then, stay loud, be nice.
— Ela

About the Author

Elanur-Dinc

Elanur Dinc is the founder of Istanbul Muse, former agency owner and writer, originally raised in Germany and living in Istanbul for over six years. What started as a temporary move for a project slowly turned into a deep emotional connection with the city. Somewhere between chaos, stray cats and emotional overstimulation, she accidentally became a little bit of an Istanbul muse herself. She came to Istanbul for work — and stayed for the cats. Through personal essays and urban observations, she writes about the beauty, contradictions and emotional intensity of everyday life in Istanbul.